We went to the Guelaguetza last night! The festival actually lasts officially for a week and unofficially for several weeks beforehand, since Mexico doesn’t hold a week-long party when a month-long party will do. Oaxaca has the highest percentage and variety of indigenous people of any state in the country, and the Guelaguetza celebrates the many local traditions from all over the state: handcrafts, food, music, dance, religious rituals. So we have been going to parades and artisans’ booths and so on, but the cherry on top is the three-hour performance of traditional dances at the beautiful stadium designed specifically for the festival.
After each group performs, the dancers throw bread, bananas, chocolate, baskets, whisk brooms, etc. into the crowd. Munchkin scored one of the tortillas used for tlayudas. They are the driest, most boring tortillas I’ve ever tasted, and it turns out they grow on you after a while. Maybe I’ll even order a tlayuda now.
The entire crowd sings along when the group from La Mixteca comes on. “Canción Mixteca” is a love song to one’s native land, wherever that might be–wave a hat and join in! “Quisiera llorar, quisiera morir, de sentimiento” (I want to cry, I want to die, of emotion).
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July 26, 2016 at 5:17 pm
Beth Nord
Oooh, that song is sooo beautiful. It makes a lot of people (including me) cry real tears.
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July 30, 2016 at 8:16 pm
Amy Zucker Morgenstern
When I only knew the chorus, I thought it was sweet but kind of mawkish. When I looked up the lyrics, I was really moved. I don’t think I am more mushy about places than people, but learning the words took it out of the realm of ordinary love songs.
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July 26, 2016 at 9:11 pm
Andre Fleet
Very Cool 😀
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August 4, 2016 at 7:50 pm
Amy Zucker Morgenstern
It’s a good month to visit Oaxaca, for sure!
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July 27, 2016 at 4:43 pm
Beth Williamson
I have not been in Oaxaca for the celebration you describe but have
visited many of the villages and archaeological sites– we took a bus to the village where Benito Juarez was
born. Oaxaca is wonderful!
Beth Williamson
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August 4, 2016 at 7:52 pm
Amy Zucker Morgenstern
We have gotten to a few villages, but in some ways the Guelaguetza has kept us from exploring outside the city. There have been so many events we didn’t want to miss. Now that it’s over, we’ll go to villages and archaeological sites that have been on our list. Tops for me are Monte Alban and El Tule.
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